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Tomatillo Tamworths
Mari Omland and Laura Olsen
Yankee and Doodle squealed in the crate in the back of the Subaru. We were as shocked by the piglets’ lung capacity as we were by the fact that we, two former vegetarians, were about to start raising and selling meat! Once we got them home, they settled in quickly in the barn, scratching against the hand-hewn beams and eventually burying their noses in sweet-smelling hay.
In 2007, midway through our nonprofit conservation careers, we decided to move back to Vermont and farm. We believed that re-localizing food production was as compelling for the 21st century as wilderness was to conservation in the last century. We also loved the sweet smells of hay. So piglets Madison, Revere, Fife, and Drum followed that first summer. We chose Revolutionary War-era names that first year to reflect the significance of local food to our nation and planet; the name of our farm is a nod to Ethan Allen’s Green Mountain Boys.
Starting out, our production knowledge was limited. So we took advantage of Vermont’s significant agricultural learning opportunities and sought guidance from more established farms. Still, naiveté has its advantages. Not knowing what to do or expect, we spent more time with our livestock than most farmers do with theirs—and that brought us knowledge and joy. It’s practically impossible not to smile—and learn—watching piglets. Or seeing a doe give birth to her kids. Or eyeing grown pigs as they spoon on a cold winter morning. Our joy expands watching our apprentices, farm share members, and other visitors experience farming.
At a farm picnic yesterday, the barnyard was abuzz with people greeting, eating, and shopping at the farm stand. We welcomed first-time guests as well as familiar neighbors who, for two years—that’s 104 consecutive Thursdays—have visited the farm for their weekly farm share: their choice of organic meat, vegetables, raw milk, eggs, and canned goods. Two years in, we’re still amazed by the joy this place spins. The farm tightens the weave in our community.
Some say the secret to great food is in the sauce. Those who study nutrient density say it’s in the soil. We know the secret is in the farming, in nurturing relationships—with our neighbors and natural systems, between our animals and our customers. But a good sauce doesn’t hurt, either; here’s a pork recipe that we love because it combines flavorful, pastured pork with the vibrancy of summer’s bounty. Once fresh tomatillos are gone, canned tomatillos or salsa verde makes this a cozy meal featuring the tastes of summer.
The Green Mountain Girls welcome you to “Eat, Stay, and Farm” with them in Northfield. You can find their pasture-raised meats, veggies, eggs, and milk at their farm stand, as part of a farmstay, or at Ariel’s Restaurant in Brookfield. More on their food and farm stays at EatStayFarm.com.
Photo by Rose Wall
Tomatillo-Braised Pork
Mari’s adaptation of a Rick Bayless recipe
1 1/2 tablespoons rich-tasting pork lard or olive or vegetable oil
2 lbs country style ribs
1 quart puréed fresh tomatillos, canned tomatillos or
salsa verde
hot peppers to taste (1-2 jalapenos or habaneros)
1 medium white onion, sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
small handful of dried tomatoes
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro or a bit less dried or ground coriander
salt
Let the meat thaw in the fridge and then come to room temperature. Dry it thoroughly, cut into chunks, and salt and pepper it. In a medium-size Dutch oven or other heavy pan with a tight-fitting lid, heat the lard or oil over medium heat. When quite hot, lay in the pork. Brown well on both sides, 5–10 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring regularly until golden, 3–5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook a minute longer.
Raise the heat to medium-high, and, when really sizzling, add the tomatillo purée (or salsa verde) all at once. Stir until noticeably darker and very thick, 3–4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of water, the dried tomatoes, and cilantro or coriander. Taste and season with salt, usually 1 teaspoon. Stir everything thoroughly. Cover and let it simmer on the stove or put it in the oven at 325 ºF for at least 45 minutes (can be longer for an even more tender dish with thicker sauce).
Serves 6.